Jess laughing while wearing Canggu surf one piece in navy blue

Interview with Jess

by lucia roman


Interview with Jess: A badass surfer and friend

In the very instant we met, I was captivated by Jess (@jess_and_the_ocean), her character, honesty & great big beaming smile. 

Since 18yrs old she travelled & lived abroad & for the last 3 years, she has been creating content for companies around the globe to highlight environmental issues.

Promoting the ocean with Ocean Culture Life (
@oceanculturelife) & the use of recycled ocean plastic with Oceanworks (@oceanworks) & (@netyourproblem), the same company that recycles fishing nets to make our recycled lycra for your suits, ladies.


Jess wearing Canggu surf one piece on the beach

Jess is wearing the Canggu surf one piece in Navy blue. Click on the image to see more. Source: ninefootstudio



After 11 years working on private Superyachts for the rich & famous as a personal chef between the Med & the Caribbean, she decided to pack it all in & see what happened.

So Jess is different from your typical wave chaser. British raised, born in South Africa, grown naked on the beaches of s.west France, educated around the globe in varying circumstances from America, to Bahrain, Africa to Alaska, with stories to tell that will stretch the imagination… there's no wonder she is hard to shock & cares little about the trivial.

This is a brief taster of Jess, who spends her time not only promoting the oceans & encouraging female surfers of all ages but the need to break away from the norm & what's considered acceptable of women these days.

 

If you want to know more about her, follow her on @jess_and_the_ocean for daily snippets of this entertaining, rule-bending, lovable lady Jessica.

 

 

Jess holding a surfboard on the beach wearing Canggu surf one piece

Jess is wearing the Canggu surf one piece in Navy blue. Click on the image to see more. Source: ninefootstudio

 

How connected do you feel with the ocean?

Well I almost drowned aged 8, and to fix that, I was then thrown into water activities by my wonderful mum and loved them—sailing, swimming, wakeboarding, then surfing, and kite-surfing at a later date.

I have always been a beach baby, and having grown up spending summers in the crazy currents of southwest France, I had an early appreciation for the strength and pure undeniable power of Mother Ocean.

The ocean always pulls me back, no matter how far I go... all I have to do is watch her for a while, and all my worries fade. It's quite bloomin splendid.

 

Jess in the ocean taking a photo
Jess taking a photo in the water. Source: @jess_and_the_ocean

 

What do you love the most about surfing?

NO AGE LIMITS. The lineup can be all your buddies ranging from an 8 year old to an 80 year old, its hilarious how many random new friends you get just from a shared wave, a cool ocean moment, a sunset together...it really bonds you.

Surfing is the best way to get clarity for me, to take a breather, remember what it's like to feel 
fully alive & just play like a kid again. It's our gift from the gods…whichever gods you believe in. You're always always only a paddle away from a better fricken frame of mind.

I don't put as much pressure on myself these days to be a certain level as I have been surfing for over 12 years & it's taken this long to just relaaax. I'm not looking to go pro, I'm not in this for any other reason than to feel good, laugh my ass off & at the end of the surf if I do even one maneuver a fraction different to the last surf, HATS OFF & well done me.

We always manage to lift the general vibe in the line up when we paddle out...women have that wonderful ability, we aren't competing, we are the cheer squad baby! 

Women surfer riding a wave in Bali

Jess is having lots of fun riding this wave in Medewi, Bali. Source: @jess_and_the_ocean


Are you more a longboarder or a shortboarder?

 

I used to only longboard but when the pandemic hit & the beaches closed, panic struck! I heard through a friend that a few islands away people could still surf, but it's not a longboard wave.

The only option was to bite the bullet & go get a shortboard. So I went out & blindly got a brand new 5'7 fish (realising later that I should have seeked some professional advice).

I can honestly say I freakin loved the experience. It took me 6 weeks of not giving in & thank Michael Jackson I did! I feel so lucky that I can surf pretty much all of my quiver with relative ease & without prejudice to either riders.

'Logging days are mega & I can charge on fat rollers on my epic 9'4 Takayama, proper cruisy, ladies & gents all being fine & groovy. Or when the waves are just right & it's not too busy, I like to take a smaller board like my chubby 6'4 McCoy or whipper snapper 5'7 Sharpeye & practice steep take offs, chasing down the line & great big juicy cutback with a fat smile beaming from my (usually burnt) cheeky chops.

I honestly love it so much....all the more wrinkles to show for it too, 
life changing for sure! A very grateful hooman bean right here.

Thank you grandmother Bali & all the beautiful locals who make this place just so special.  


Happy surfer girl on the beach holding her surfboard


Favorite surf spots?

In Bali ? Oooo ALL OF THEM ...have their moments. I loved this spot in the Caribbean called Josiahs Bay...ah tropical delights!


Morning routine?

Hot water & lemon, then a long black coffee, whilst doing my 1/2 hour of morning Duo Lingo Bahasa Indonesia (which I am obsessed with!) - quick stretch lol, I never do this... then off to check the surf with my bestie Tara the T-Spoon. THIS...now this is livin. =) 

Female surfer wearing surf swimsuit one piece in the beach